If there is one thing I hate is someone stealing Bikes.. I know there are a lot of really heinous crimes out there but stealing someones mode of transport especially a young kids bike has to be one of the lowest things you can do.
I drove into my local petrol station today and watched as woman came out and started tearing into two lads who were twice her size, the lads looked a little frightened and I wound my window down, I had seen them from when they pulled up and they hadn't moved so I was confused at what they could possibly have done to deserve the kind of anger this woman was pouring out. I thought she may hit one of them and half their size or not it's not good to see an adult behaving like that.
It soon became clear what was happening, they were both on bikes and the woman was with her young son also very small but staying inside the shop. He had recently had his new bike stolen and one of the lads was sat on top, he didn't even bother denying that it was her sons bike but made no move to get off.
The woman then changed tactics and phoned the police, at this point the lad tried to cycle away she stopped that and he got off and simply started to walk off, she got the bike back to her son and then began to follow them. I collected my passenger quickly drove round and offered to take her and follow them.
She thanked me but said that it was pointless as the police simply wouldn't do anything about it even if they caught them, she was just so glad to have the bike back. She explained her son had stopped outside the local asda store only to find his bike gone when he came back (no lock) I was only in for a minute.
I told her I am a keen cyclist and hear these stories all of the time, I told her to get him a D Lock and that kids like that simply go to the nearest large store area and wait for someone to pop in for "a few seconds" whilst they pick up their free bike. This was one lucky lad and hopefully he will learn his lesson.
I don't totally agree with the police not doing anything however my experience has been that they can't really do much, it's not seen as serious, often underage thieves and mostly a non violent crime. The thing that really worries me is the criminals know this and thats why taking bikes is so popular. I am not advocating the wild west "hanging horse thieves" but they had the right idea in taking it very seriously, taking a bike at a minimum = stealing a car.
The home of Dark Newt, his Travels & Mostly Pointless Musings - Joggle 2013 and beyond
Thursday, 20 November 2014
Tuesday, 18 November 2014
Brad's 2013 tour
I came across this guys video of touring in america, what I was amazed at was how similar our bike setups were, especially the rackpack on the back of the bike. I was worried mine was too big and long - check his out about 9 min 34 in:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOnT0APHABc
He seems like he had great fun almost spiritual,
That picture really expresses the freedom of cycling, if you watch the video you can see the bike is a basic Raleigh no fancy groupset etc.. The important ingredient is your spirit of adventure and determination.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOnT0APHABc
He seems like he had great fun almost spiritual,
That picture really expresses the freedom of cycling, if you watch the video you can see the bike is a basic Raleigh no fancy groupset etc.. The important ingredient is your spirit of adventure and determination.
Tuesday, 28 October 2014
Specialized Warranty
I thought it only fair to mention my recent experience with the Customer Services Team at Specialized UK & Worcester Cycles.
Essentially I was out on a ride from Birmingham to Stone in Staffordshire, I had bought a new sleeping bag and decided it would be a good ride to go pick it up and camp out then cycle back the next day, however all didn't go to plan!
I like to listen to music on my trip and wasn't aware of a noise emanating from my front wheel, by the time i had stopped listening to music my front wheel was making a fairly horrible noise. I examined the wheel and whilst there seemed no play in it, it didn't seem to run smoothly.
I had recently serviced the front wheel and noticed there was a slight line of wear on the cups but nothing to worry about, however now I was worried.
I still had a few miles to go, it was getting dark and I had no choice but to push on which i did unhappily as i imagined my front wheel disintegrating as I went along!
I returned home and stripped down the wheel, the grease was still good and the new bearings I had put in were fine but the cup had a deep wear line in and pitted... this was unusual as it would mean a hub replacement after only 14 months!
I contacted Worcester Cycles who I had purchased the bike of about 14 or so months ago and when I spoke to them I was told they doubted Specialized would warranty it because it would be normal wear and tear but they were more than happy to deal with it as a warranyt issue. What was even nicer was they said Worcester Cycles would do a replacement hub for me very cheaply or as near to cost as possible if the warranty didn't work out which I also felt was generous.. I said that I would speak to specialized customer service directly first as I couldn't see it as normal wear and tear on a 14 month old bike which had 2 yr parts warranty??? Worcester Cycles were more than happy for me to do this, and as always helpful and pleasant.
The gentleman at Specialized asked me to take my wheels into Worcester and give his name to them and telephone number so they could be examined and photographed and he also said as long as it wasn't deliberate damager or negiligence they would sort it out, let me be clear he wasn't accusing me of anything and I agree totally they have to check for themselves.
Well I rang 2 days later to be told Specialized had agreed to repair my wheel which was wonderful news and a great outcome. I then rang again two days later (I am impatient I am 100 percent sure Worcester Cycles would have contacted me). What I was told then was more of a shock, the lady who was now dealing with my bike said your "NEW" wheels are now ready, I asked what do you mean new wheels? I only had a faulty front hub, she explained to me that specialized had told them to order me a brand new set of wheels!!
I turned up and yes indeed they had new wheels for me, with my cassette and tyres all transferred from the old ones onto the new. What's more instead of the wheels that came with my bike originally they had been upgraded to shimano rims and Shimano Deore Hubs instead of the Hi/Lo cones that Specialized supply.
The whole warranty process and replacement had taken probably a week in total, how is that for amazing service from Worcester Cycles and Specialized.
All I can say is that I recieved a more than fair service from both Worcester Cycles and Specialized. One of the things I have always said regarding suppliers in my workplace is that the real measure of their worth is not in what when or how they supply things, the real measure is how they behave when things go wrong so from my perspective Worcester Cycles and Specialized both score extreemely well!
Incidentally, I have bought 3 bikes in total from Worcester Cycles and they have always been great so if your looking for a good bike shop, they have a range in store and more via catalogue etc..
http://www.worcestercyclecentre.com/
P.S. They are in the process of upgrading their website
Essentially I was out on a ride from Birmingham to Stone in Staffordshire, I had bought a new sleeping bag and decided it would be a good ride to go pick it up and camp out then cycle back the next day, however all didn't go to plan!
I like to listen to music on my trip and wasn't aware of a noise emanating from my front wheel, by the time i had stopped listening to music my front wheel was making a fairly horrible noise. I examined the wheel and whilst there seemed no play in it, it didn't seem to run smoothly.
I had recently serviced the front wheel and noticed there was a slight line of wear on the cups but nothing to worry about, however now I was worried.
I still had a few miles to go, it was getting dark and I had no choice but to push on which i did unhappily as i imagined my front wheel disintegrating as I went along!
I returned home and stripped down the wheel, the grease was still good and the new bearings I had put in were fine but the cup had a deep wear line in and pitted... this was unusual as it would mean a hub replacement after only 14 months!
I contacted Worcester Cycles who I had purchased the bike of about 14 or so months ago and when I spoke to them I was told they doubted Specialized would warranty it because it would be normal wear and tear but they were more than happy to deal with it as a warranyt issue. What was even nicer was they said Worcester Cycles would do a replacement hub for me very cheaply or as near to cost as possible if the warranty didn't work out which I also felt was generous.. I said that I would speak to specialized customer service directly first as I couldn't see it as normal wear and tear on a 14 month old bike which had 2 yr parts warranty??? Worcester Cycles were more than happy for me to do this, and as always helpful and pleasant.
The gentleman at Specialized asked me to take my wheels into Worcester and give his name to them and telephone number so they could be examined and photographed and he also said as long as it wasn't deliberate damager or negiligence they would sort it out, let me be clear he wasn't accusing me of anything and I agree totally they have to check for themselves.
Well I rang 2 days later to be told Specialized had agreed to repair my wheel which was wonderful news and a great outcome. I then rang again two days later (I am impatient I am 100 percent sure Worcester Cycles would have contacted me). What I was told then was more of a shock, the lady who was now dealing with my bike said your "NEW" wheels are now ready, I asked what do you mean new wheels? I only had a faulty front hub, she explained to me that specialized had told them to order me a brand new set of wheels!!
I turned up and yes indeed they had new wheels for me, with my cassette and tyres all transferred from the old ones onto the new. What's more instead of the wheels that came with my bike originally they had been upgraded to shimano rims and Shimano Deore Hubs instead of the Hi/Lo cones that Specialized supply.
The whole warranty process and replacement had taken probably a week in total, how is that for amazing service from Worcester Cycles and Specialized.
All I can say is that I recieved a more than fair service from both Worcester Cycles and Specialized. One of the things I have always said regarding suppliers in my workplace is that the real measure of their worth is not in what when or how they supply things, the real measure is how they behave when things go wrong so from my perspective Worcester Cycles and Specialized both score extreemely well!
Incidentally, I have bought 3 bikes in total from Worcester Cycles and they have always been great so if your looking for a good bike shop, they have a range in store and more via catalogue etc..
http://www.worcestercyclecentre.com/
P.S. They are in the process of upgrading their website
Monday, 15 September 2014
A New Saddle (Brooks)
Ok, so I have decided to invest in a Brooks Saddle, I like the imperial flyer however after some advice from "Steven" at Brooks I may just go for the standard flyer.
Well I went for the Brooks Imperial Flyer, knowing the problems I have with lower half paralysis :-) I felt this was the best option.
Here's a few pics:
Even the box has been carefully detailed to match the craftmanship of the saddle.
From the moment you recieve the box, you can tell that this is a quality item. If your used to feeling everything is mass manufactured that there is no art left in production then buy a Brooks saddle for a pleasant surprise.
Fortunately the saddle required very little adjustment to fit for me, raised the seat post a few inches as it was lower than my gel saddle and adjusted the angle correctly. At this point I was a little worried, this saddle felt hard, it had some give but the logical side of me said this thing is going to hurt...
I took the saddle out for a 20 mile initial test, straight away it just felt right! After 20 miles I was not sore and it felt as comfortable as my Gel Saddle??? Even more pleasing was there was no feeling of pressure in my nether regions something I really suffer with, what a pleasure. I am going to keep riding to break it in Brooks estimate 300 to 500 miles and I will report back. If it is as comfortable long term I will be investing in a second one for my other bike!!
I have just sent a request to see if I can visit the factory to buy one direct and perhaps get to sit on a few models! I will update this post accordingly. I am looking forward to this one!
UPDATE:
I haven't managed to get out to the factory yet however I recently went on a ride to Synnerton then Stone in Staffordshire. I hadn't realised the rails on my saddle weren't properly in the seat post. This must have allowed the saddle to rise up. The result was a certain point of my anatomy recieved undue pressure which I just wasn't aware of until I got off the bike to rid myself of some excess water. The upshot was excruciating pain when water pressure tried to force it's way through a pipe with a knot in it.... very very painful.
Well I went for the Brooks Imperial Flyer, knowing the problems I have with lower half paralysis :-) I felt this was the best option.
Here's a few pics:
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| My old saddle! |
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| Shiny New Saddle in the box |
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| Open |
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| Side view |
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| It's on the post! |
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| Mounted |
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| Another View |
Fortunately the saddle required very little adjustment to fit for me, raised the seat post a few inches as it was lower than my gel saddle and adjusted the angle correctly. At this point I was a little worried, this saddle felt hard, it had some give but the logical side of me said this thing is going to hurt...
I took the saddle out for a 20 mile initial test, straight away it just felt right! After 20 miles I was not sore and it felt as comfortable as my Gel Saddle??? Even more pleasing was there was no feeling of pressure in my nether regions something I really suffer with, what a pleasure. I am going to keep riding to break it in Brooks estimate 300 to 500 miles and I will report back. If it is as comfortable long term I will be investing in a second one for my other bike!!
I have just sent a request to see if I can visit the factory to buy one direct and perhaps get to sit on a few models! I will update this post accordingly. I am looking forward to this one!
UPDATE:
I haven't managed to get out to the factory yet however I recently went on a ride to Synnerton then Stone in Staffordshire. I hadn't realised the rails on my saddle weren't properly in the seat post. This must have allowed the saddle to rise up. The result was a certain point of my anatomy recieved undue pressure which I just wasn't aware of until I got off the bike to rid myself of some excess water. The upshot was excruciating pain when water pressure tried to force it's way through a pipe with a knot in it.... very very painful.
Sunday, 10 August 2014
Sami's First Mountain - Crib Goch - Snowdon
A little bit of a last moment thing, Sami had been asking to traverse Crib Goch so we travelled down to Snowdonia. We left on Friday night running a bit late we arrived about 11:30 and camped out in the Pen-Y-Fan car park, our route was to be: Penn-Y-Fan to Crib Goch to Snowdon - Pyg Track - Pen-Y-Fan.
Sami had never climbed a mountain let alone a traverse a ridge like Crib Goch, he was really excited and to be honest although I have climbed Crib Goch so many times I have forgotton exactly how many, his enthusiasm was infectious.
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| Sami beamin we had just arrived |
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| Ok whats next |
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| Boiling water for an evening cuppa! |
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| Shameless Selfie |
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| This tent you have lent me... it's a little small |
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| Porride for breakfast and one of Sami's special teas |
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| To celebrate I bought Sami his first Kendal's Mint Cake! |
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| Starting Out around 6:15 |
The peak in the distance is the start of Crib Goch, the weather was warm but you could see high up was not so good, Crib Goch was covered in fog. We traveled along the Pyg Track and took the right turn over the stile for the path that leads to the ascent up to Crib Goch.
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| looking back on the ascent to Crib-Goch |
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| Even the worst photographer can take great pictures when Snowdonia is your subject. |
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| Typical Snowdonia weather sun and fog together |
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| Sami Ascending and still in high spirits. |
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| The fog was now closing in on us |
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| Traversing Crib Goch in the fog |
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| It looks easy, but when theres big drops involved you don't mess about! |
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| Time for a breather |
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| Hmm Foggy again |
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| Almost off Crib Goch |
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| The Trig Point at the end of Crib Goch |
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| The Snowdon Summit |
I had told Sami about the Cafe at the top of Snowdon and the railway, I don't think he quite believed me and assumed I was telling him tales just to bribe hi to the top!
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| The Descent down the Pyg Track |
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| My last photo of the day! |
It was a tiring journey home, we pulled over and had to sleep in the car for an hour because we were both too tired to drive, we had both only got 3.4 to 4 hrs sleep on Friday night and I am sure that Sami got home and slept like a log as I did!
Wednesday, 30 July 2014
Taking Care of Your Feet (Athletes foot and nails)
One of the least mentioned touring topics is taking care of your feet. When your on the bike for any length of time especially in the wet, your feet get damp especially in between your toes, and in the warm weather your feet just plain sweat.
This the perfect environment for atheletes foot (tinea pedis) caused by a group of fungi called dermatophytes. On a long trip this can be a real discomfort and if not taken care of can cause an infection etc..
I seem to be prone to this so I had to learn how to prevent/avoid/treat! So here's my advice:
TIP 1: As often as possible get your shoes off and air your feet
TIP 2: Dry your feet thoroughly fungi don't like dryness! I take special care to dry in between my toes; not usually available when camping but if you can use a hairdryer on them after a shower.
TIP 3: plenty of clean socks and change them in the day on a long ride
TIP 4: In hot weather try cycling with a good set of sandals they do SPD clip in sandals now
TIP 5: Treat with athletes foot medication, as always check with your doctor first but theres plenty of over the counter powders that do the job.
TIP 6: Treat them early not later, especially the moment you feel any tingling
TIP 7: Go for decent cycling shoes, my current combination is a pair of goretex spd cycling shoes and a pair of SPD compatible sandals.
There are a lot of socks available for cycling and they now come impregnated with silver which makes them anti microbial and anti fungal, so it's worth while investing in some if your prone to it like me.
NAILS
Another issue that can occur is bruising to the nail, mostly the big toe nail. I have only found a few causes to this two of them avoidable: A good old bang to the nail, very tight socks or poor fitting shoes.
You can't really avoid the accidental knock, but you can avoid tight socks (I have this if I cycle for too long in goretex socks) and when I cycled in a pair of shoes that didn't fit well. The answer is simple don't cycle in poor fitting shoes and don't cycle for long stretches in tight fitting socks.
I have found one thing that does exasperate it and that's letting your toenails grown too long, it doesn't have to be much just letting them go as long as the softer front of your toe can be enough! so keep them well looked after.
heres a good guide to cutting them: Follow this to a cutting guide
Heres a good guide about them: Follow this link for a guide to them
Heres a link to treating a bruised toenail: Follow this link for treatment
When this has happened to me touring, I have nipped into a local shop for ice and raised etc.. with some ibruprofen etc.. If your out in the wild, try to find a cold stream for some relief! In this case "PREVENTION" is far better than cure!
If anyone else has anymore tips or advice please send them!
 | |
| Athletes Foot (Tinea Pedis) Not nice to cycle with or any time for that matter. |
I seem to be prone to this so I had to learn how to prevent/avoid/treat! So here's my advice:
TIP 1: As often as possible get your shoes off and air your feet
TIP 2: Dry your feet thoroughly fungi don't like dryness! I take special care to dry in between my toes; not usually available when camping but if you can use a hairdryer on them after a shower.
TIP 3: plenty of clean socks and change them in the day on a long ride
TIP 4: In hot weather try cycling with a good set of sandals they do SPD clip in sandals now
TIP 5: Treat with athletes foot medication, as always check with your doctor first but theres plenty of over the counter powders that do the job.
TIP 6: Treat them early not later, especially the moment you feel any tingling
TIP 7: Go for decent cycling shoes, my current combination is a pair of goretex spd cycling shoes and a pair of SPD compatible sandals.
There are a lot of socks available for cycling and they now come impregnated with silver which makes them anti microbial and anti fungal, so it's worth while investing in some if your prone to it like me.
NAILS
Another issue that can occur is bruising to the nail, mostly the big toe nail. I have only found a few causes to this two of them avoidable: A good old bang to the nail, very tight socks or poor fitting shoes.
You can't really avoid the accidental knock, but you can avoid tight socks (I have this if I cycle for too long in goretex socks) and when I cycled in a pair of shoes that didn't fit well. The answer is simple don't cycle in poor fitting shoes and don't cycle for long stretches in tight fitting socks.
I have found one thing that does exasperate it and that's letting your toenails grown too long, it doesn't have to be much just letting them go as long as the softer front of your toe can be enough! so keep them well looked after.
heres a good guide to cutting them: Follow this to a cutting guide
 |
| Nasty and painful |
Heres a link to treating a bruised toenail: Follow this link for treatment
When this has happened to me touring, I have nipped into a local shop for ice and raised etc.. with some ibruprofen etc.. If your out in the wild, try to find a cold stream for some relief! In this case "PREVENTION" is far better than cure!
If anyone else has anymore tips or advice please send them!
Thursday, 24 July 2014
Useless Rear Brake Tektro Novela - Maintainance and Repair
On my last ride my rear brake had become pretty useless I think I could have gotten more braking if I had squeezed my finger and thumb around the brake disc.
Now this was the first bike I had ever had with disc brakes so I hadn't really got a clue, however I have done motorbike disc brakes so how hard can it be... ahem
The first thing was to diagnose the issue and this was what I came up with:
1. The rear brake cable was contaminated (there was a lot of drag when pulling and it wasn't returning properly, I suspect it got some sea water in it.
2. The rear disc was contaminated, just wiping a tissue over it left black oily residue
3. Because the disc was contaminated I was pretty sure the pads were contaminated.
Solution:
Stage one: I disconnected the brake cable and removed it from the bike as well as the sleeve. I cut off the crimp at the end and pulled it out of the sleeve. Sure enough it had contamination and corrosion, it was dull etc.. I laid the cable on some paper and I sprayed it with a light oil, I then fed it back into the sheath and worked it backwards and forwards.
I then oiled the new cable and threaded it through, the new cable glided easily so that was one issue resolved. I refitted the cable and but didn't connect it onto the disc brake lever at the rear.
Stage 2: Decontamination
I removed the rear wheel and took it outside, I put sprayed the disc surface with disc cleaner and then worked it in with tissue. I did this to both sides then wiped the disc thoroughly, I did this two times until I was getting no more residue or contamination off. I left the rear wheel outside for a while so the solvent on the disc could evaporate thoroughly.
Stage 3: New Pads
To fit my new pads I needed to remove two retaining bolts on the inner housing, this allowed me to remove the existing pads, i could see clearly they were contaminated. They are only held in place by magnets so it's not a hard task.
Once the old ones were removed I examined the mechanism it seemed ok but I applied some lubricant to the moveable parts, it moved even more freely now. I then fitted new pads in and replaced the two bolts.
Stage 4: Adjusting:
The first stage in adjusting my brakes was refitting the wheel and then I fully tightened all of the brake adjusting nipples, on the rear brake and the adjuster on the brake itself so I could get the maximum adustment later.
I then moved the rear brake lever and refitted the brake cable, keeping an eye on the outside pad I pulled the lever and adjusted the cable tightness so that it left the outer pad 1-2 mm from the disc itself. I just checked the manufacturers website and they recommend 3mm gaps either side of the pad, I will try that later see if it makes any difference.
I then turned my attention to the inside adjuster, between the bolts that I had removed to fit the pads earlier. I tightened this so that the inside pad protruded towards the disc, again leaving 1 - 2 mm clearance from the disc. I then turned the pedal to ensure there was no catching on the disc.
I made the wheel go faster and then pulled the rear brake, it bit very well but the bite point was at almost full extension on the brake lever. I slackened off the brake arm lever and then removed some of the slack on the cable bringing the disc slightly closer.
I then cranked the wheel again and pressed the brake lever, it was an amazing difference the brakes felt like new.
Now I should mention this, that when I went for the new cable I showed it to one of the "bike mechanics" he told me I would most likely need a new disc/pads and possibly a new rear brake as the tightness on the cable was likely to be a damaged brake mechanism. I knew enough to know a new brake would not have been necessary, if it had I would have made a warranty claim!!
In the end, it cost me some spare time, a brake cable £3.99, some cleaner £4.99 and a new set of Pads £12.00 front and rear. Had I gotten the shop to do it.... I would have paid top price for the parts and labour of about £40.00 per hour... This is why I like to maintain the bike myself, it's fun, saves money and best of all makes me better able to deal with on road emergencies myself!
I will try and take photos to add.
Now this was the first bike I had ever had with disc brakes so I hadn't really got a clue, however I have done motorbike disc brakes so how hard can it be... ahem
The first thing was to diagnose the issue and this was what I came up with:
1. The rear brake cable was contaminated (there was a lot of drag when pulling and it wasn't returning properly, I suspect it got some sea water in it.
2. The rear disc was contaminated, just wiping a tissue over it left black oily residue
3. Because the disc was contaminated I was pretty sure the pads were contaminated.
Solution:
Stage one: I disconnected the brake cable and removed it from the bike as well as the sleeve. I cut off the crimp at the end and pulled it out of the sleeve. Sure enough it had contamination and corrosion, it was dull etc.. I laid the cable on some paper and I sprayed it with a light oil, I then fed it back into the sheath and worked it backwards and forwards.
I then oiled the new cable and threaded it through, the new cable glided easily so that was one issue resolved. I refitted the cable and but didn't connect it onto the disc brake lever at the rear.
Stage 2: Decontamination
I removed the rear wheel and took it outside, I put sprayed the disc surface with disc cleaner and then worked it in with tissue. I did this to both sides then wiped the disc thoroughly, I did this two times until I was getting no more residue or contamination off. I left the rear wheel outside for a while so the solvent on the disc could evaporate thoroughly.
Stage 3: New Pads
To fit my new pads I needed to remove two retaining bolts on the inner housing, this allowed me to remove the existing pads, i could see clearly they were contaminated. They are only held in place by magnets so it's not a hard task.
Once the old ones were removed I examined the mechanism it seemed ok but I applied some lubricant to the moveable parts, it moved even more freely now. I then fitted new pads in and replaced the two bolts.
Stage 4: Adjusting:
The first stage in adjusting my brakes was refitting the wheel and then I fully tightened all of the brake adjusting nipples, on the rear brake and the adjuster on the brake itself so I could get the maximum adustment later.
I then moved the rear brake lever and refitted the brake cable, keeping an eye on the outside pad I pulled the lever and adjusted the cable tightness so that it left the outer pad 1-2 mm from the disc itself. I just checked the manufacturers website and they recommend 3mm gaps either side of the pad, I will try that later see if it makes any difference.
I then turned my attention to the inside adjuster, between the bolts that I had removed to fit the pads earlier. I tightened this so that the inside pad protruded towards the disc, again leaving 1 - 2 mm clearance from the disc. I then turned the pedal to ensure there was no catching on the disc.
I made the wheel go faster and then pulled the rear brake, it bit very well but the bite point was at almost full extension on the brake lever. I slackened off the brake arm lever and then removed some of the slack on the cable bringing the disc slightly closer.
I then cranked the wheel again and pressed the brake lever, it was an amazing difference the brakes felt like new.
Now I should mention this, that when I went for the new cable I showed it to one of the "bike mechanics" he told me I would most likely need a new disc/pads and possibly a new rear brake as the tightness on the cable was likely to be a damaged brake mechanism. I knew enough to know a new brake would not have been necessary, if it had I would have made a warranty claim!!
In the end, it cost me some spare time, a brake cable £3.99, some cleaner £4.99 and a new set of Pads £12.00 front and rear. Had I gotten the shop to do it.... I would have paid top price for the parts and labour of about £40.00 per hour... This is why I like to maintain the bike myself, it's fun, saves money and best of all makes me better able to deal with on road emergencies myself!
I will try and take photos to add.
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